And a partially accomplished D.0 (i.e., stopping just short of flipping) has the same risk. Note: The following specific techniques defeat the brake action of guide mode: B & C open the device just enough to compromise the braking action of guide mode.
Listed below are specific techniques and alternatives largely from posts to this thread attributions to folks are quite loose list is in no particular order with little of any appropriate cautionary wording.Ī) cycle the locker that is in the bight of rope: simple but slow not efficient for long lowers. MMO) ī) convert from guide mode (a.k.a., plaquette config) to regular friction mode (a.k.a., plate config), the latter being the mode we have when we belay off our harnesses a partially completed D.0 can have the effect of 'a' it can also fail if the strands pop past each other within the slot I feel D.0 should be dropped from a list of reliable techniques.Ĭ) completely remove the device from the picture this involves a load transfer(s) and may involve rigging a mechanical advantage. įor lowers, almost all release techniques can be broken down into three generalized methods in this, the letters correspond to the specific techniques listed afterwards.Ī) "open" the device only enough to defeat the braking action of the guide mode many feel this general method warrants a backup on the belay loop (e.g., tied off munter a.k.a. I'd prefer to limit this to lighter-weight devices without any moving parts.Įdited to generalize methods as well as list specific techniques that accomplish those general methods. Sure, something like a gri-gri or eddy makes it easy. The device could be an ATC Guide but no need to restrict responses to that device, especially if someone knows of a similar device that is relatively easy to release from this mode. What rigging techniques have folks actually used to reliably release and lower in a controlled manner? Practiced this yesterday with a handful of partners. The belay device is attached to the anchor and configured in "guide mode" (i.e., now locked off by the weight of the partner). This thread regards a following partner(s) who hangs on the rope and then needs to be lowered before unweighting the rope. if a belayer on a cliff face has to lower, then depending on what is below them, there could be far less total friction and lessons learned from the top-lowering situation might be invalid." top anchors are rarely on the face of the cliff, they are usually back from the edge this means the rope bends over the lip, and friction is exponential with the bending angle, meaning that there is likely to be a significant load reduction because of that friction. one set of anecdotal experiences doesn't necessarily translate to the situation you might find yourself in. Edit to add that I think it is worth putting at the top of this thread a quote from rgold (words in brackets are mine):
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